The fish man’s mission

Newlyn without a fish chef is like Dublin without a publican. It just ain’t right. 

It has been that way for overly long, but now, thankfully, Ben Tunnicliffe is at The Tolcarne Inn.

Ben is a lifelong chef, an unswerving specialist. He studied at Bournemouth college in the late 80s, which he believes was then, and still is, one of the best places to learn to be a chef. As part of his course, he worked with Grand Chef Michel Trama is his lauded 2 Michelin star restaurant in south west France. This early exposure to the kitchen of such a heavyweight chef gave Ben a serious grounding in the classics and an appreciation of the very highest levels of culinary skill and dedication to craft.

Once qualified, Ben cut his teeth in various country house hotels before going to work with his biggest food inspiration, chef Colin White at Woolley Grange in Bradford-on-Avon. This, Ben maintains, is where he really learnt to cook. Woolley Grange has a two acre walled garden with two full-time gardeners and, for most of the year, the chefs would start in the garden, see what was ready to be harvested and plan the menu from there. An understanding of seasonality and a connection to growing has always been there for him – he grew up with his grandparents earnestly tending fruit and veg in a big plot at home, growing organically as a matter of course.

The siren call of Cornwall came when friend Grant Nethercott, chef owner of Alba in St Ives alerted Ben to an opportunity at Jean Shrimpton’s Abbey Hotel in Penzance. Jean and her husband Michael wanted to put the former Zero Club space to use and create a restaurant that would compliment the charming boutique accommodation that the Abbey offers Penzance’s well-heeled visitors. Ben and his wife met with the hoteliers and a plan formed. Working together to renovate the space, they opened as the Abbey restaurant in 2001, with Ben buying the lease in 2005 and working there until selling up in 2008. They set the Abbey up with a simple ethos inspired by his Catholic upbringing – to do unto others as you would have done to yourself. To translate that into cooking, he makes food that he wants to eat.

The Abbey was an incredible eight year adventure for Ben; his own restaurant, the move to Cornwall, the birth of his two sons and then, in 2003, a Michelin star. Of course, being recognised as excellent in any line of work is cause for celebration, euphoria even, but in the case of Michelin stars and the pressure that comes with maintaining them, it can be tough love.

After selling the Abbey in 2008 Ben took the role as a consultant and head chef at the Scarlet Hotel, Newquay’s wonderful, luxury eco retreat brought to us by the three sisters who own and run the Bedruthen Steps Hotel. Being a fundamental part of something so brave and positive for Cornwall was a galvanising experience, but once a chef has had his own restaurant it is difficult to go back to employment, and so once the Scarlet was up and running, Ben started to think about the next door he could put his name over.

The Tolcarne Inn came up for sale at the right time for Ben; it was exactly what he wanted. A pub rather than a restaurant and, more, a pub in Newlyn – the ultimate source for his fine fish dishes. By this time, he was tiring of the ceremony that so often accompanies fine dining. He had never set out to be a Michelin starred chef, and wanted to do something more wholesome.

According to Michelin, the five criteria they judge on are quality of ingredients, skill in their preparation and the combination of flavours, level of creativity, value for money and consistency of culinary standards. The first of those criteria doesn't mean the ingredients have to be luxurious, but they do have to be very fresh.

However, because of the modern media-inspired fascination with food and chefs, especially Michelin starred chefs, there are understandable misconceptions that Michelin food has to be expensive, exclusive and over-engineered. At the Abbey, this misconception clashed with the truth of Ben’s food – which is affordable, accessible and honest. His food philosophy is actually very simple: buy the very freshest ingredients you can, show the ingredient the love and respect it has received through the process of growing it, rearing it or catching it, and put something on the plate that tastes great. That is what won him his star at the Abbey, and that is what he continues to do at the Tolcarne. He wants to bring the same high standards to Newlyn without bringing the formality that is synonymous with it. He is out to prove that you can have great food at an affordable price.

He appreciates the value of and attraction to chefs with a science bias such as Blumenthal and Adria, but he says that he is someone who doesn't want to understand how or why things work. Instinct is his ally. “Touchy, feely, tasty” is his mantra.

Being in Newlyn has led to an outright devotion to fish on his menus. In Ben’s previous kitchens, the ratio of fish to meat was roughly 50:50. At the Tolcarne, it is 90:10 in favour of fish. He sees fish as an ever changing bounty, dependent on weather and which boats are working. A good relationship with Stevenson ensures that Ben knows what has been landed and when, and he buys based on the reality of the catch rather than a preconceived idea of what he wants to work with.

He wants to do everything he can to help promote Newlyn and the fishing industry in a positive light, and spends study days with students at Penwith College developing recipes for students to produce in conjunction with Stevenson and sell through their shops. It’s about connecting new culinary talent to the primary produce of the area – there's nothing more sustainable than that.

Beyond fish, his suppliers are predominantly local: Trevelyan Farm shop, Heather Lane Nurseries, and for the meat dishes on the menu, Vivien Olds of St. Just. He likes to buy food from people who are fundamental to its production as opposed to purveyors or wholesalers who simply make a profit on someone else's output. Of course, there would be unavoidable limitations if Ben only sourced his ingredients locally, he couldn’t, for example, seduce us with rich chocolate or the deeply floral aroma of vanilla. If you have ever had one of Ben's desserts, you will know that this would be a tragedy.

At the Tolcarne, Ben is in business with his mum, Anne, who looks after front of house and beams with pride every time someone says anything about how good Ben’s food is. So, is the Tolcarne, a family run pub with polish that serves the best of what's landed in Newlyn every day at an accessible price point, an asset to the area? The answer has to be yes. Since moving here in 2000, Ben has worked tirelessly to bring his brand of honest yet acclaimed food to the counties full timers and visitors alike. Greg Wallace, MasterChef judge and renowned foodie, was in Newlyn the other day, stumbled upon the Tolcarne and tweeted about its tastiness. This of course is good for business, but it also strengthens Cornwall’s position as a top UK food destination. And we are talking about an ambitious soul here, so the Tolcarne may only be the first of Ben’s ventures into making our local area a bona fide food destination.





Ben has very kindly shared a recipe with us. Do try this at home…

Salad of Ray with roasted pepper, sun-dried tomatoes and saffron scented dressing

For the Ray

1 ray wing (approx. 400g)
1 onion
1 stick celery
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of thyme
5 peppercorns
A splash of white wine
2 pints water
A good pinch of salt

Method:

In a large pan bring all the ingredients other than the skate to the boil and then simmer for 20 minutes. 

Add the skate to the liquor and simmer for five more minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and leave the skate in the liquid until it has cooled down though still warm.

For the saffron dressing

1 tsp saffron
2 oz sun-dried tomatoes, diced
1 red pepper grilled, skinned and cut into dice same size as the tomatoes
1/2 medium hot chilli finely diced
2 cloves garlic finely crushed
1/4 pint extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp freshly chopped basil
1/2 tbsp lemon juice

Method:

Soak the saffron in 2 tbsp of boiling water for 5 minutes.

Sweat the garlic in some of the extra virgin olive oil to cook out its harshness.

Mix everything together with the saffron and its water.

Season with salt and pepper and more sugar to taste.

To serve, flake the skate over rocket and watercress and spoon the dressing over.

(serves 2)

http://www.tolcarneinn.co.uk

Words © Dee and Gerard Ivall. Images © Nik Strangelove

A hand-carved masterpiece in our landscape

It's not everyday that a genuinely awe-inspiring public treasure just crops up in your local area. Well, it's just happened 'round here with the birth of Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens, and it's hard to overstate the brilliance and benefit it brings.

Its location meant it slipped under our radar, but since the opening of Tremenheere's own café, The Lime Tree, the ensuing local buzz drew us in. The gardens and cafe are both post-worthy in their own right, yet being intrinsically linked, it was impossible to separate them. We spoke to café manger Miki Ashton who, it turns out, is just as involved in the gardens. She was able to give us an equally thorough insight into both compelling ventures.

Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens

Back a while, when the land at Tremenheere was still being put to agricultural use, it had already been earmarked by some high-profile gardening types as having the potential to be one of the best gardens in the country. It's because the spot possesses a unique combination in it's geography, microclimate and soil properties. But this has been known for centuries; the monks living on St. Michael's Mount had a vineyard here in the 13th Century (who says British wine is a new phenomenon?). The man who saw it's true potential most recently was Neil Armstrong, a local doctor, who's passion of gardening lead him to purchase the land when it came up for sale in 1999. So, unlike most other local public gardens, Tremenheere is privately owned. There's no national charitable organisation at work here, no, far from it; we were astounded to learn that most of the work has been carried out by Dr Armstrong himself, with the occasional help of one gardener, more recently. This kind of gargantuan solo effort puts us in mind of Rowena Cade's Minnack Theatre, in fact the similarities between these two sites don't stop there. Both embrace natural coastal views and both celebrate art. Tremenheere's unspoilt vistas of the Mount are just one of its joys. The bounty of exotic flora, including tree ferns, cacti, bamboos and giant, prehistoric-looking succulents, make you feel as if you're walking through an Eden biodome. We admit to knowing very little about gardening, but apparently there are species of plants growing here that simply do not grow outdoors in any other part of the country. Its sub-tropical bias also means that the gardens will remain green, and open, for most of the year; both the gardens and café will only be closed for the month of January. Fair enough.

But what about the sculpture? This aspect of things began a few years ago, when American experiential artist James Turrell was looking for a permanent home for his work, Skyspace. That home was found in Tremenheere, with Neil offering his garden as a blank canvas for the artist, who now has two works on site. Since then, David Nash, Kishio Suga and Billy Wynter have all made the gardens their perpetual gallery for large-scale sculptures and installations. The pieces are all linked, in that they worship the natural world. It's a fitting theme.

The move to open up to public visits was not part of the original vision; it was not begun as a moneymaking enterprise. But when upkeep became too costly, the gates were opened, and West Cornwall gained a magical asset. As you burrow through woody undergrowth, emerge into open desert-like terrain, wander across green hillsides, gaze at world-beating views, navigate shrub-fringed paths, in and out of mind-altering artistic experiences, all in the space of a few acres, you can hardly believe you're ten minutes from Penzance. Despite our wealth of naturally occurring rural treasures, this man-manipulated version replies to our need for stimulation through creativity, and does it on a breathtaking scale.

But that's not the end of the story, there's more garden to come, as Neil has recently purchased a further three acres of land at the very top of the site. And there's even a rumour of another artist collaboration. As in all gardens, change will be a constant joy.

The Lime Tree café

Once Neil allowed all comers to roam and ramble around his garden, it seemed a reasonable idea to feed and water them. Plans for an ambitious café were drawn up by Penzance architects Barrie Briscoe (to who the building is now dedicated) and Neil Wall of Arcos Studios, and some of the funding for the scheme came from a Rural Development Programme grant. Seeking advise on the design of the kitchen, Neil called upon old friends and experienced restauranteurs and caterers Miki and Justin Ashton. This pair were already past masters of the Penzance dining scene, having run their restaurant, The Lime Tree, first at the Penzance Arts Club and then at Trevelyan House on Chapel Street. They had built a loyal client base, fanatical about their outstanding food focused around the produce of a few key local suppliers. Happy to oblige Neil's request, Justin went about creating his dream kitchen at Tremenheere, not knowing that Neil would soon be asking them to run it. When he did, its out-of-the-way location instinctively made them nervous, but Neil's own Herculean work on the gardens and the prospect of a purpose-built space, inspired them.

Using their original training as a product designer and furniture designer respectively, Miki and Justin created the interiors of the cafe, which saw Justin producing a bespoke design for the café tables, which are made from pleasing slabs of polished sycamore. The light and gallery-like space begged to house artworks, and continue the theme of the gardens indoors, and we can't not mention the two enormous Trevor Bell paintings that hit you when you walk in. These, like the beautiful oversized pots by Tony Lattimer, are on loan by the artists, who clearly saw the place as a fitting setting for their work.

But let's not forget the kitchen, the heart of everything, and where the story started. Initially limiting his service to weekday lunchtimes, a Saturday brunch and Sunday lunch, Justin is putting out a small but action-packed menu, where Char Sui pork with fish chilli broth sits merrily alongside roast beef with bubble and squeak. Dishes are teamed up with a carefully considered list of wines, beers and fruity drinks, and for mid-morning visitors, coffee, tea and cake comes in many delicious flavours and formats.

It quickly became apparent that the project was so much more than the 'straightforward' running of a café. Rather, it was to play a fundamental role in the running of the entire public operation. But they can see the potential; they know that there are two factors that are key to the site's appeal as a commercial proposition. Firstly, it's Tremenheere's dual focus; this is what makes it a 'destination', ensuring people get in their cars and come. We ought to mention the free parking at this point, in fact, it's so unheard of it's almost worthy of capital letters. The second factor is the seemingly limitless space available, making it an ideal base for all kinds of events and creative happenings. Weddings are an obvious market to tap, and the gardens now have the necessary license for marriage ceremonies – it doesn't take much imagination to see what a stunning venue they'd make. An outdoor Farmers Market is held on the second Sunday of the month – an idea that's expected to grow over time. Music events are in the offing too. We notice that the café even has a state of the art projector fitted, and we're told that plans for regular film nights are afoot as well. As Miki muses about her dream of live acoustic gigs in James Turrell's Skyspace, we get hooked by her sense that anything is possible here.

Such boundless potential flies in the face of today's prevalent reined-in mentality. The Minnack, Eden and, now, Tremenheere, they all stand as our county's own proof that bloody-minded vision can make wonders still.

http://www.tremenheere.co.uk

Words © Dee and Gerard Ivall. Images © Nik Strangelove

Crowning glory

Is it every man's dream to own a brewery? Maybe. But as nice as it may sound, the reality is a task and a half, and few men could muster the necessary patience and commitment. In fact, few would would want to get to work at 4 am to start the brew process, and few would have the audacity to bore a hole 45 metres into the earth in the hopes that they might find a good source of spring water, but with no guarantees that they would. Josh Dunkley is one of those few, and Cornish Crown is his brewery dream come true. 

Now, as we meet Josh a year into the life of Cornish Crown, the operation looks well organised, the beer is selling and the business is bubbling along nicely. But it's been a long journey to get here. Josh's brewery plan had been in the pipeline for years; having successfully run The Crown on Bread Street with wife Michelle, he regarded starting up his own micro-brewery as a natural progression. But it was a long-term vision; starting any new business takes time, but to learn a completely new skill to be able to start that business, takes a while longer. Simply loving beer is a good starting point, but there's a science to be learnt and mastered before that first pint can be poured. First off, Josh took a basic course in brewing skills at Brewlab (yes, there is such a thing as beer college), and then he blagged an unofficial apprenticeship with his friends the Otter Brewery in Devon. He also received a lot of help and advice from other local brewers. Josh explains that in the last few years a seriously competitive micro-brewery scene has developed in the area; the rise in popularity in real ales is seeing a general boom in the industry.

Once up to speed, Josh looked for premises. Uncannily, the site Josh found, over at Badger's Cross, already had planning permission for a brewery. The landlord himself had once had that same dream, but never saw it though. The premises were ideal, and offered plenty of room for expansion. Then came the question of water. Because the brewing process involves so few ingredients, each one must be of the highest quality. Water is one of those key ingredients. Josh was dubious about using mains water; not being able to rely on its source and quality meant, ultimately, that he had less control over his pint. While most brewers see this as an acceptable risk, Josh had other ideas: he wondered whether he could tap his own spring. After a bit of asking around there seemed to be evidence of 'potable' water in the area. But this was no guarantee; the whole project was a gamble. To access the water, he'd have to drill down, how far was impossible to say, and even once water was struck, it's quality could vary wildly. Even a bore hole specialist warned Josh off the idea. Nevertheless, bore he did, and at 45 metres he struck water. Putting it through just a simple sediment tank, a micron filter and UV, he has an unlimited supply of pure spring water for his beer. The system will pay for itself in a year and a half, and after that it's free. Brilliant.

Josh gave us a brief guide to the beer making process. It's actually quite complex, and the terminology had us foxed, but it was clear that his real passion lay in the creative bit: the balancing of ingredients and processes that makes one beer different from another. With so few ingredients to play with, these differentiating factors are pretty subtle. He explains that two of the key variations are 'hoppiness' and 'maltiness', and the degrees of these could make an 'IPA' at one end and a 'mild' at the other, with umpteen other beer varieties in between. For the record, Josh's personal taste dictate's that Cornish Crown beer's err on the side of 'hoppy'. There are currently five coming out of the brewery: Cornish Crown Ale, Cornish Crown SPA, St. Michael's Bitter, Causeway, and most recently, Merry Mild. Josh likes to involve his customers in the development of the beers and holds monthly Beer Club where new ales are sold for a £1 a pint, and are duly supped, considered and commented upon. Josh tries to bring out a new beer every month.

Response from customers has been positive, and Josh now supplies to total of 40 businesses, although, surprisingly, he actually sells more beer out of the county than he does within it. He tells us that this is because of the fierce (but friendly) competition down here, and because many pubs are tied-in to larger breweries. However, in London it appears they love anything Cornish, so Cornish Crown goes down a treat. In fact, Josh's decision to include the word 'Cornish' in the title was part of his cunning export strategy all along – Josh studied advertising, and it's clearly paying off now. Josh and Michelle lived in London until 14 years ago, and Josh once managed the renowned Landsdowne pub in Primrose Hill. His erstwhile contacts in the capital are now his lifeline, but there's nothing wrong with that; outside money coming in can only be a good thing. Josh once had plans to open a bottling plant next door, which would have increased his export potential massively. But the necessary investment in both cash and time was a step too far, and sensibly he reined in his ambitions before he endangered the whole business.

So, instead, he's taking it slow and keeping things manageable. He currently has a '6-barrel' plant, with plans to expand to no more than a 30-40 barrel operation within around five years. And apart from one employee, who helps with the brew one day a week, Josh does everything himself. This is indicative of his controlled approach; like a good beer, he knows that the making of a good brewery can't be hurried, it has to mature over time. But already, after just one year, his achievements are worthy of high praise – it's a local success story, and for that he deserves our loudest cheers.

http://www.cornishcrown.co.uk

Words © Dee and Gerard Ivall. Images © Nik Strangelove

Queen Cheese

There are entrepreneurs who simply want to make money and there are those that have a vision of a broader context and their place within it. Helen Venning, owner of Newlyn Cheese & Charcuterie, is a shining example of the latter. Yes she has a passion for cheese, but she opened her little shop because she is driven by a genuine desire to put Newlyn and Penzance on the map as a destination for food lovers. 

Born in North Cornwall, but moving to this area at the age of ten, Helen fondly remembers a time when Penzance was jam-packed with independent shops and the town glowed with a positive aura. While she has witnessed a distinct decline in this respect over the years, Newlyn has managed to cling onto its core of high quality food retailers; as well as its fishmongers, there's Lentern the butchers, Newlyn Bakery, Lovells fruit & veg shop and Jelbert's ice cream.

Helen simply sees her cheese shop as a missing piece of this jigsaw. In fact, much of the success of the business has come by perfectly complimenting the other sellers; she keeps tabs on what the other shops offer so there's no overlap, and she's happy to recommend them if customers come seeking an item she doesn't stock. While she does carry a small number of cheese-friendly items, like selected charcuterie, breads, crackers and olives, she is insistent that the shop is not a deli, and passionately upholds its singular purpose (much inspired by Jelbert's unbending 'vanilla only' policy). She believes in doing a few things well and not over-diversifying, and that's surely the secret to why her produce-selling neighbours are still going strong.

Interestingly, the final decision to focus mainly on cheese was dictated by the premises itself; in Helen's mind, the quirky little building by the bridge screamed 'old-fashioned dairy', and the concept grew around that vision. Inspiration also came from similar businesses like Country Cheeses in Tavistock, as well as other small retailers in the vein of Labour and Wait in London, who are channelling the vintage corner shop vibe exquisitely, with painstakingly chosen products, meticulously curated shelves and servers in crisp aprons. And yes, Helen's shop is beautifully styled and would look equally at home on Marylebone High Street as it does on New Road, Newlyn, but it works because it's simple and without pretensions; it's a real shop, selling everyday things that people want.

Cornish cheeses are the shop's central product. Helen has a good dialogue with the local makers which allows her to get to know the individual stories and to learn about new products. Local cheese connoisseurs and frequenters of the shop should be familiar with Yarg, Helford Blue, Helford White, Cornish Crumbly, St. Endellion Brie, Keltic Gold and the award-winning Cornish Blue. Sadly, Menallack, the producer of 16 fine Cornish cheeses including Menallack, Nanterrow and Tala, is no longer running (but panic not, Allet Farm is now producing their goat cheeses and there are plans afoot to bring the others back too).

Cheeses from further afield are also featured; a number of British classics and oddities are always welcome, and every month a small corner of the counter is home to a cheese representation from a particular European region. This idea stems from Helen's life away from Cornwall; for ten years she lived in Portugal, Spain and France. As well as a love of cheese (and food in general), she came home from her travels with some impressive linguistic powers and, until recently, she has put these skills to good use translating and teaching languages at Truro College. Listening to her authentic pronunciation of the obscure continental cheese varieties is almost as pleasurable as tasting them.

Helen built on her passion for the subject by learning on the job, talking to makers and by picking the brains of her partner Robert Wright, who runs Untitled restaurant in Penzance. Now well-versed in the language of cheese herself, she imparts her knowledge to staff through an in-depth training process that involves visits to suppliers and a lot of cheese eating. 

Of equal importance as the cheese, is service. Helen knows she can't compete with supermarkets on price, but what she can upstage them on is providing customers with an inviting environment, product knowledge and an eagerness to help and respond. A comments book allows her to fine-tune the stock to accommodate frequent suggestions.

To support the core products, Helen has a head full of future ideas, including cheese tasting evenings, a cheese recipe collaboration with local chefs, a picnic box service and the sale of mini cool bags with ice packs for customers with a long journey ahead of them. In fact, Helen's imagination is brimming with countless projects, and she's only being slowed down by the commitments of motherhood (Arthur is 9 months old). Despite this sweet distraction, Helen's energy is barely undiminished and her achievements are laudable.

Communities need people to act and inject positivity. As a local who's been away and returned, it's easy to stand back and bemoan the decay, but Helen didn't want to be that person. She's made a difference and hopes her contribution will help kick-start a trend in the right direction.

http://www.newlyncheese.co.uk/

Words © Dee and Gerard Ivall. Images © Nik Strangelove

Our cups runneth over

Café culture is flourishing in Penzance and we're hardly able to keep up with all the great places there are to graze, sip and sup in.

The freshly opened Mr Billy's is a tea or coffee lover's Shangri-La. Venture inside and you enter a world where the phrase 'fancy a brew?' could potentially translate into infinite permutations of ingredients, preparations and preferences. But if you just want a simple cuppa, the connoisseurial complexity isn't forced upon you, rather, it's there if you're interested. And if you are interested, Mr Billy's currently carries 42 kinds of leaf teas and 17 kinds of coffees – all of which can be purchased in any quantity to take home, but can also be served at your table. That's right, every one of their locally roasted coffee beans can be ground to order and served in an individual cafetiere, and as far as we know, this kind of offering is rare in this country, let alone Penzance.
  

 

This should be exciting to any fan of hot beverages. But it doesn't stop there. Each pot of tea ordered arrives accompanied by, among other accoutrements, an egg timer. The purpose of this, the waitress will explain, is to measure the optimum three-minute brewing time. Once precisely brewed, the leaves are removed from the pot, in their little straining bucket, and set aside. Having enjoyed your first cup, the remains of the brew is discarded, fresh hot water is fetched and the leaves are re-immersed for a second, perfectly fresh cup. You're even encouraged to take the used leaves away with you, to protract your enjoyment at home, and this makes the price of a pot exceptionally good value.

We thought tea ceremony was the preserve of Japanese culture, but it's all going on right here in West Cornwall. And for real tea heads, another fact we learned is that Green teas must be made with water heated to just 80 degrees Celsius, so as not to burn the leaf and incite bitterness. Of course, Mr Billy's have an urn that heats to exactly that temperature. All such information is yours for the asking, making it an educational experience as much as a pleasurable one. Also for sale are an array of the best brewing, straining and serving devices on the market, along with a tasteful selection of related gifts and food products.
 
The full tea menu is far too comprehensive to relay here, but in addition to the ones you may have already come across or have in your own kitchen cupboard, some standout varieties (if only for the allure of their names) include Puerh Tea cakes, Russian Caravan and Georgian Old Lady. Fresh mint tea and Chai teas are also available.

Coffee beans are a seasonal product, so supply fluctuates, but quality and variety are always assured. We're fans of the Black Chough blend by Hands-on Coffee in Wadebridge, who have developed the Mr Billy's Blend especially for the cafe.

To others who know of the owners, this kind of dedication to leaf and bean should come as no surprise, as Nigel and Heather Parry are the founders of Dishotay, the tiny shop at the top of Chapel Street that traded as a pure retailer of fine loose leaf tea and freshly roasted coffee. Having been regular Dishotay customers ourselves, we expected great things of the new enterprise, and the new café venture with Steve and Janet Mitchell is the natural culmination and of the couples' years of experience and knowledge. Nigel and Heather are seasoned caterers having previously run Billy's Café and the Beach in Sennen. And now, once again, they get to practice what they preach by expertly preparing and serving the speciality products they sell.

 

Also on the menu of the expanded enterprise are homemade cakes and some enticing lunch offerings. We tried a number of savoury dishes, with the 'food envy' award of the table going to the steak sandwich, with its strips of perfectly tender Trevarthan steak. We also shared a cracking cream tea with homemade scones, and an apricot and date crumble slice. On the quality of the food alone the place is to be highly recommended, but put this together with the liquid refreshments, and you're faced with a seriously appetising proposition.

The emphasis is on local and fresh, which is always a commendable principle. In fact, the Parrys have had strong links with local suppliers for many years: Origin and Hands-on for their coffee, and Tregothnan for their teas. And now they use nearby small producers like Trevarthan for their meat, and as we're talking, Joe 'the salad guy' delivers tomorrow's leaves.

 






Inside, the cafe is taking on an distinct Art Deco theme, but there's also an eclectic mix of other decorative items including Chinoiserie cabinets and reclaimed local signage. The interior space is deceptively large: from the window at the front the floorplate widens to a roomy bar and seating area at the rear. This means that the obvious street presence is limited, but we guarantee that word of mouth will work its magic to boost custom. Good places will be sought out wherever they are, and those offering the rare and unique will surely lure folk hungry for originality.


www.mrbillys.com

Order the teas, coffees and related accessories online at www.dishotay.co.uk

Words © Dee and Gerard Ivall. Images © Nik Strangelove

Tea by the Sea

Like a blue and white dingy, bobbing alone in the bay, the Little Tea Caravan has once again pulled up on the promenade. The caravan, named Rosie Lee, is resplendent in her new coat of paint and is not only a refreshing sight, but a welcome merchant of refreshment in the mile-long desolate stretch between Newlyn Gallery cafe, at one end of the prom, and The Poolside cafe, at the other. The unspoilt sparseness of the prom is part of its charm, but this attractive distraction is quite welcome. Promenaders can partake from a simple menu of teas, coffee and cake at the scattering of tables and chairs, but if the sea breezes prove too bracing, you can take these away too. If the vintage vehicle, elegantly mismatching crockery and colourful appliqued banner doesn't endear you to the enterprise, you'll be charmed by the chalk board announcing 'Free squash for kids'. 

The idea for the pop-up cafe was born when the team took over the shipping container that sat incongurously on the prom last year. That initiative was a part of the 2011 Cornwall Design Season, but popularity spurred them onto finding a marginally more permanent home. It all seemed so perfect and obvious, but it was no easy journey to get there; an ocean of bureaucracy nearly sunk the scheme. But thanks to the perseverance of the crew, the caravan is now a regular feature on the Penzance seafront; moored and open for business (weather permitting) on weekends and school holidays from May to October. 

Follow Little Tea Caravan on Facebook for regular updates on opening times.

Images © Nik Strangelove

Robert Wright on a plate

Untitled by Robert Wright has been raising Penzance's epicurean bar for just over a year. Based in Jean Shrimpton's charming Abbey Hotel, holding a coveted 'Bib Gourmand' Michelin Award, and a recommendation in this year's Michelin Guide, it is a shining example of how to relax fine dining just enough to create something that is aspirational yet comfortable. 



For those of you who haven't been to Untitled – go. Have à la carte upstairs in the art-filled dining room, or opt for deep red sofas, cosy cave-like corners and serious tapas downstairs. In either room, the wine list is comprehensive, both in terms of choice and price range. And they have green wine – delicious, spritzy, hangover-friendly green wine. If you needed another reason, the Michelin Guide only awards a 'Bib Gourmand' to restaurants that offer excellence with good value for money, and Untitled is now one of only four in Cornwall to have achieved this balance.
 

We wanted to know more about the man and the philosophy behind this welcome addition to the PZ social scene, and Chef Owner, Robert Wright, kindly gave us some of his precious time in the short break between lunch and dinner service. 



Rob's geographical journey started in Tavistock, Devon. Next stop was Plymouth, where, after a stint as a vegetarian shopkeeper, he took a professional vegetarian cooking course at Plymouth catering college. On graduation, his tutors advised him to go for a job at iconic exponent of vegetarianism, Cranks, in Dartington, Totnes. He got the job, and crafted his art there for two years before answering the siren call of a pork pie. 



As a fallen vegetarian, he decided to move into the scene that we now call gastropub, and then on to Dartington Hall as second chef. From there, Rob moved over to Bristol's multi award-winning riverstation. This was where he cut his teeth – where he learnt and really understood the philosophy that he now still maintains; modern European food that is rustic, hearty, intelligent, created using traditional Escoffier skills, but less structured than Michelin food, with composition on the plate a lot freer and using only fresh, local, seasonal ingredients.



Promising as his culinary career was, Rob decided to pursue another of his passions and went to college in Bristol to study Spatial Design (interior design without the soft furnishings). He then went to London and got a place at The Bartlett, UCL – one of the meccas for architecture at that time. On completion of his UCL studies he had an important decision to make – should he follow his love for food or his love for structure and form? Food won out, and he successfully sought work with Alastair Little in is eponymous Soho restaurant. His time spent working there was a time of inspiration and discovery, Rob still admires and refers to his mentor as 'the great Alastair Little'.



Senior trainer at Jamie Oliver's Fifteen near Old Street was his next role, then Head Chef at Amanda Pritchett's three high-end gastropubs: The Lansdowne, The Lord Stanley and The Fox. His final stint in London was a year at Spring Studios, where an early morning argument about ordering cocoa butter for Keira Knightley saw him throw a tray of organic bagels at the Head Chef, quit and fly to Paris, all before 11 am. He didn't have long to think about his next move because his friend and former Head Chef at The Gurnard's Head, Zennor got in touch asking if Rob fancied taking his place. So, in 2008, back from Paris and with nothing tying him to London, he jumped into his 1959 Volvo Amazon and pointed South West. As he drove over the brow of the hill onto Zennor moor, with a gnarly sea hitting the cliffs, he knew that Cornwall was where he needed to be.



He stayed there as Head Chef for three years – winning a César Award from the Good Food Guide (one of only ten) for 'Dining pub of the year UK 2010', and furthering the work of those before him to put The Gurnard's Head on the gastronomic map. Finally, in 2011, he opened Untitled by Robert Wright. A place with his own name above the door. Here, he maintains his exacting standards, only working with the freshest, local seasonal produce, and only with suppliers that hold the same regard for quality that he does. His partner, Helen Venning, creator of the excellent Newlyn Cheese and Charcuterie, is one of his suppliers, making a cheese board at Untitled, a cheese board unrivalled.



He showed us the cod that he would be serving that evening, explaining that it should not be white, but rather almost green and translucent with a sharp edge that sits proud and is super firm – this being the ultimate sign of freshness. On the subject of sustainable fishing, he trusts Newlyn fisheries, who believe that you can catch and eat cod with a clear conscience, and who have, in fact, increased the quota for cod in this area. He tries to use wholly sustainable fish such as gurnard, and he only uses fish that is locally landed. He won't buy anything that has come from the north sea, only shopping from the Atlantic. He tries to use each and every part of the fish he buys. Belly fat from cod, which is removed from the fillet because it will cook too fast compared to the rest of the fillet, is reserved and salted because salt cod makes great brandade, a tapas favourite. Heads and skin are used to make stock for soups and bases for sauces. Untitled is gaining a reputation as a fish restaurant, but this is a result of Rob's commitment to working with local produce and his creativity with fish rather than a purposeful specialisation. It's not something that worries him though – his only concern is that people come and have a great experience in his restaurant.



We asked Rob to design a dish to represent PZ. He gave us two: Brawn or Pigs Head Terrine, in reference to patron saint of Penzance, St John the Baptist, who's head famously ended up on a plate. And, St Anthony's Fishcake, an original recipe of his that is dedicated to the patron saint of fishermen, comprising mackerel, Cornish earlies (a variety of sweet, soft skinned new potato) and the three cornered leek which is a wild garlic indigenous to the area. 



Rob has chosen Penzance as the location for his first restaurant because, he says, it is real and there is no pretense here. There is a simple love and appreciation of food, but no snobbery. He is not sure if PZ could ever be a food destination, although he does believe that there is potential for the town to be something very special if more entrepreneurs brought newness and quality to the mix. And he believes that good things attract other good things. He likes to think that by creating somewhere nice to go and eat he is making the town more desirable, and without nice things it doesn't matter what the sea looks like, it will just feel like a dreary town. We asked Rob where he would dine on a Saturday night off. His answer was Curry Corner on Chapel Street, because not only is the food delicious, but sitting in the window to eat has a street food feel. And for the record, Pellows is his pasty maker of choice.



It is worth noting and appreciating that Rob wears a butcher's apron, the uniform of commis chefs, because, he says, chefs who wear them are the ones who believe that they never stop learning. This is wholly indicative of his attitude and entrepreneurial energy. Something tells us that this is only the beginning for Rob, and we look forward to the next chapter in his story.

http://www.untitledbyrobertwright.comWords © Dee and Gerard Ivall. Images © Nik Strangelove

Best coffee by a long shot.

With a faint whiff of fresh paint still hanging in the air, The Assay House's newness is tangible. As the latest in an express succession of inhabitants of number twelve Chapel Street, we watched with puzzled minds and hopeful hearts as the name board was screwed to the fascia. With its gentrified locale, period glass frontage and open-plan interior, the premises is yearning for an owner to put its merits to proper use and provide Penzance with an asset that lasts. While this new incarnation hasn't quite settled in, we enjoyed our first acquaintance with the place. Not operating as a full restaurant yet, instead, The Assay House has coffee, teas, cakes and small menu of antipasti, as well as beers, spirits and wine. They also sell wines by the carafe – a thoughtful touch. The highlight, though, is the coffee; it's the best we've come across in the area. To our taste, the Flat White we tried was on the money. The beans are supplied by Portioli, an Italian brand we hadn't heard of, but have duly noted. PP will be back for more.

The Assay House

12 Chapel Street

Words © Dee and Gerard Ivall. Images © Nik Strangelove